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| Newsletter Overview of French Wine Regions |
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Why French Wine?
When I walk into a wine store I am always overwhelmed with the number of wines on display. Whether I am there to buy, sell, or deliver wine, the number of wines from all corners of the world seems incredible.
The reasons are as legion as the number of choices facing someone in a wine store. First and foremost, France has long held a worldwide reputation for taking its food and its wine quite seriously. In fact, beginning with Napoleon, efforts to classify and regulate the production of wine were in place. This is the origin of the source “place name” (e.g., Cotes du Rhone, Bordeaux, Champaigne; as opposed to varietal name - Chardonnay) designation that many wine drinkers find so difficult. So
why name the place a grape was grown rather than the varietal? Simple.
The French have long recognized that a grape grown in one location
will have significantly different characteristics from the same
type of grape grown in a different locale. They have made such a
science of this that they distinguish when the same grapes are grown
5 kilometers apart. Thus the creation of the AOC (appellation d'orgine
controllée – literally, controlled designation of origin)
system based on the source of the grapes.
The AOC system deserves an overview. There are 276 AOCs in France. Given that France is almost the same size as Texas and that less than % of France is dedicated to grape cultivation, this is quite formidable. At its foundation, an AOC recognizes what the French refer to as “terroir,” meaning soil and its characteristics – e.g., clay, mineral, pebbly, chalk as well as exposition. Each AOC has its own administration which establishes rules for the cultivation of grapes for that AOC. These rules range from the number of vines in a row and the distance between rows, to the amount of wine permitted to be produced and to whether the harvest must be by hand or machine . No irrigation of the vineyards is permitted - ever . All producers desiring the AOC designation must scrupulously follow these rules. Throughout the growing and production cycles, AOC administrators ascertain that the requirements have been met. In making wine, there is an additional layer of regulation. The wines themselves are regulated to limit the quantity that can be produced, allowable production methods, whether or not blending is permitted and the acceptable range for each component of a blend. Moreover, when a wine bears the name of a chateau or domaine, all the grapes must originate from that chateau or domaine. Finally, the resulting wine is tasted each year to determine quality and “typicity” (meaning that there is a typical wine of an AOC and all wines must be within this range). If the wine is flawed or not typical, then the right to carry the AOC is withheld. When a wine falls outside the AOC (which a producer may elect because, for example, he or she wants to blend grapes in a "non-AOC" range) it will dear the designation Vin de Pays. These may also be exceptional wines.
How is this different from New World wines? The hallmark of New World wines is consistency from one year to the next. Vineyards are irrigated so that no matter the climate for that year, drought or rain, the grapes that result will have similar characteristics from year to year. A wine designated as “ Napa Valley ” must contain at least 75% of grapes from Napa Valley . Where do the rest come from? It depends; perhaps Napa , or Colorado , or France , or Texas , or . . . . If described as a Chardonnay, then at least 85% of the grapes must be Chardonnay. What are the rest? It depends. If a wine bears the name of a vineyard in California does that mean that all of the grapes came from that vineyard? No. But at least 85% of the grapes came from that vineyard. If a California wine has oak, this does not necessarily mean that it has been aged in oak barrels. It may mean that oak planks stirred the wine while it was in tanks. Why are most American wines higher in alcohol? Because sugar is often added to wines after pressing. In Europe this practice is generally illegal. In short, for better and for worse, American, Australian, Argentinian, African, etc. winemakers have far greater flexibility in the production of grapes and the formulation of wine than their European counterparts. Finally, New World winemakers are not required to disclose the precise methods for making their wines.
Why try French wines? Primarily, French wines are useful to develop a sense for wine itself and for the grapes that comprise it. What are its strengths and limitations? What impact does climate have on a vintage? How does drought effect the grapes? What does 100% Chardonnay taste like?
Moreover,
when you select wine that has been made at family vineyards, as opposed to an agribusiness wine, you are likely to discover the impact of heritage and personality. Many of France 's vineyards continue to be owned and operated by a family. As many as three to four generations may live on the same vineyard passing on generations of knowledge concerning the vineyard itself and local winemaking. It is easy to recognize these wines because in France when a wine has the name of a chateau or domaine on it then all the grapes were grown at that place. The labels will carry words like Proprietaire , Recoltant , Vigneron , or Mis en Bouteille au Château. Unlike their corporate counterparts, these winemakers do not raise then lower the temperatures on their wines to kill all the yeasts only to add them back again to make wine. These growers will provide a true taste of a year's vintage.
Why try French wines? Foremost, French wines are made for food. It is a symbiotic relationship – each tastes better for the presence of the other. Enjoy your dinner!
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What
makes one wine better than another? The easy answer may be that
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seek wines from specific regions in the world; and there are those
who prefer certain grape varietals or styles of wine. These qualities
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about French wine? Why is it important that wine drinkers, at least
some of the time, check out French wines? 
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